The candlelit front room looks onto a shadowy street with nothing to see but a straggling pedestrian or two. Turning a sharp corner into the back room, you're confronted with a giant window that puts cars charging onto the BQE right in your lap—like watching Le Mans from a front-row seat. Luckily, the food is exciting enough to compete. An amuse-bouche is first off the starting line, on this occasion a shallow saucer of carefully groomed corn kernels in a light broth that whispers habanero, though the chile's presence is more perfume than heat. A couple of tiny okra buttons cavort in the middle, cooked so briefly that an engaging slime is their... More >>>