The municipal beach at Lago di Chiusi has seen better days. A crumbling concrete jetty worthy of Robert Smithson curves into the weed-choked lake, flanked by dozens of dilapidated rowboats mired in mud. A handful of fishermen from the adjacent trailer park cast lines into murky green water, seemingly oblivious to the sunlit landscape around them: Grapevines and olive trees climb the low hills in neat rows, vast patches of sunflowers make yellow smudges on the horizon, while stone farmhouses that were already old when your grandfather's grandfather was born... More >>>