The seven-course beef dinner known as bo bay mon is the holy grail of Vietnamese cuisine. Some say it was invented by a Frenchman in Saigon a century ago, while others claim it evolved naturally, pointing to the pre-existence of all the dishes. The rules are few: Begin by swishing beef strips in a boiling vinegar fondue, and finish up slurping beef congee. In between, all courses must contain beef. While Los Angeles and Houston have a dozen places that serve this cow-de-force, New York has only one, which offers it almost as an afterthought. Pho Viet Huong is the city's most ambitious Vietnamese restaurant, with a décor evoking a tropical village and featuring bamboo-shingled huts, palm trees dangling bananas, and slowly revolving ceiling fans. The menu's first page offers bo bay mon at $22.95 per person, but if you order it the waiter is likely to... More >>>