Celeste is just what the Upper West Side was waiting for—a real East Village-style trattoria serving modern Italian food at reasonable prices, like Frank's, Max's, and countless other spots a stone's throw from Tompkins Square. Been there a couple of times already with foursomes, last night including a pair of teenagers who were a little disappointed when they didn't get wine glasses. The wine list, by the way, is filled with stuff you'd like—exclusively Italian, and arranged geographically from north to south. Lots of central Italian things we've encountered before in Tuscany and Umbria, including a Polizano Rosso di Montepulciano that brought that town's weird cathedral at the bottom of the hill immediately to mind, and, especially, a '97 Morellino di Scansano from a producer I didn't recognize that had that pronounced wet-diaper flavor, as you so vividly put it.... More >>>