When it opened a couple of years ago at 813 Avenue U, spawned by a grocery that sold frozen dumplings, Russian Ravioli was instantly thronged with a hip young crowd pausing for a quick bite on the way to the dance clubs. As I finished up a plate of pelmeni one evening, the waiter leaned over and said something that stuck with me: "You know, we don't have this kind of restaurant... More >>>