Down the avenue, Fifth Avenue, where lean-tos sell Oaxacan tamales laced with chocolate mole, vendors hawk Dominican empanadas fried cartside in bubbling oil, and a climb up Sunset Park's mountain reveals a stunning panorama of the city, I spotted two new Ecuadorian restaurants squaring off like Siamese fighting fish. A neon pig with a gruesome sword going in one end and out the other led me to select El Tesoro ("the Treasure"). Passing through the doorway, I discovered a commodious dining room where lavish application of neon formed the only source of illumination. A life-size shark snarled from within a red neon lasso, while across the ceiling wandered a rainbow of glowing circles, as if someone had carried an overflowing glass of neon through the room and the... More >>>