The air in the Iraqi Airways office by the bus station in Amman, hazy with cigarette smoke that swirls around low green couches and early-career portraits of Saddam Hussein, is not as tense as one might expect, merely resigned. An attendant lazily books a ticket to Baghdad for an American customer. "Yes, there are seats," he deadpans. But not the next day, he says. There won't be another flight till Thursday. Men drift in and out of the spacious office with no apparent purpose, ambling past a large display that boasts all the world capitals the Iraqi airline once visited. The customer, Marla Ruzicka, from San Francisco,... More >>>