There are corners and dead-end streets in Far Rockaway that appear no less tattered and remote than those found in developing countries. Many of the cutesy beach bungalows, originally built for U.S. soldiers returning from the First World War, have either been looted for scrap or hawked for the price of the land underneath and razed. Some enterprising owners have built additions to their bungalows, installing satellite dishes and modifying the most modest dwellings into surfside mansions; others seem to live in poverty unlike any other in New York. Still, no matter where you are in Far Rockaway, you're saddled between the beach and the bay, and the air always smells fresh, unsullied, and full of opportunity. "We've had it!" says one longtime Lower East Sider who, along with his girlfriend, has decided to give up their $1,000 one-bedroom on Clinton Street to pay $100 more in rent for the bottom floor of a two-family near the beach. "I can surf, fish, sleep without noise, and be inside the city in... More >>>