For years New York wasn't big enough to hold two Swedish restaurants. With a handsome celebrity chef and one of the most expensive menus in town, Aquavit was the exclusive destination for Scandinavian dining. Then Christer's appeared four years ago, followed by Ulrika's. When the first tanked, Ulrika's was left as the sole challenger, with prices that undercut the competition and an adventuresome culinary bent that encouraged comparison. In what is probably a deliberate contrast to Aquavit's dramatic Adam Tihany design, Ulrika's is determinedly cottage-like, lined with blond woods and kitschy folk art. Notes of restrained whimsy predominate: bar-stool seats are shaped like buttons, though I'm not sure the "butt/button" joke... More >>>