Like an epidemiologist studying the distribution of diseases, I plot clusters of great restaurants on a big map. Long ago I noticed that many of the best cheap ethnic places hide in the shadow of elevated subway lines. Perhaps the periodic clatter of trains and the sun's permanent eclipse depress the value of real estate for more lucrative uses. And the noisy crowds periodically hurrying up and down the rusting metal steps certainly provide another requisite of a long-running... More >>>