It seems that every immigrant group in the city demands its own version of Chinese food. Indians enthuse over a half-dozen places that serve Sino-Indian, heavy on the fresh ginger and garlic, while Peruvians and Ecuadorans cherish their chifas—lo mein shops where the fare tends to be relentlessly yellow and cornstarchy. J.Lo's old nabe in the Bronx—Castle Hill—boasts a wonderful Dominican-Chinese restaurant, while Chel-sea still has one Cuban-Chinese café remain-ing, from a collection that dominated Eighth Avenue a decade ago. Of course, Chinese-American carryouts have been serving a twisted version of Cantonese since at least the 1920s, gloriously slinging chop suey, chow mein, and egg foo yong, while kosher Chinese establishments have a similar, further mutated menu. When you scarf Chinese food these days, you increasingly have to ask yourself,... More >>>