"Remember the squeegee guys?" The fellow at the table next to us was waxing nostalgic, and cursing Giuliani. I wondered if the once-notorious windshield cleaners would be surprised to hear themselves being eulogized in a restaurant like Pulino's. Keith McNally's new Bowery restaurant is certainly a sight to behold—rows of back-lit brown spirit bottles throw an amber glow from the walls, two cavernous wood-burning ovens smolder behind a brick arch, and some of the tables are constructed of police barricades, printed with the words "Do Not Cross."... More >>>