Blame the Dutch, who came to western Kentucky in the 1830s and commenced raising sheep among the rolling green hills. They originated the practice of long-smoking the flesh of sheep too old and tough to be sold as meat, a habit that persists today in a barbecue belt that stretches from Owensboro to Paducah. To investigate this phenomenon I recently descended on the region, motoring through a landscape ablaze with spring flowers, including bright red azalea, ghost-faced white dogwood, and perfumey lavender wisteria. I logged 1,000 miles in four days, inspecting over two dozen barbecues and eating in the 13 that looked and smelled the... More >>>