As the N train eased into the Ditmars Boulevard station, I glanced down and gasped. My favorite Greek fish place—the nautically themed Scouna Taverna—had vanished. No more charcoal-grilled porgy, deboned and sprinkled with olive oil and oregano, I thought while descending the metal steps from the station, no more miniature smelts, so fresh they almost arrived swimming, and worst of all, no more skordalia, the whipped potato and raw-garlic dip that was the hook of my review a... More >>>