There's no better distillation of chef Ryan Skeen's talent than a certain fish plate at his new Harlem restaurant, 5 & Diamond. Buttery swatches of raw yellowtail belly flop on nubs of tempura-fried watermelon radish, with a salty black-bean vinaigrette. That interplay between different modes of fattiness—the silken fish, the crisply battered, pungent vegetable—is both surprising and vaguely familiar. You've had these elements in proximity before (sashimi, radish), but... More >>>