In some neighborhoods, Italian trattorias have become as common as Greek diners once were—or maybe the real comparison is with Irish bars, which feed and liquor you at the same time. Trying to snooker the competition, each new trattoria stakes out its culinary turf, rummaging through recipe collections and the recollections of aged relatives for dishes not yet laid before the general public. The latest is Peperoncino, named after a short red chile. It set down in Park Slope not far from Al Di La and Convivium Osteria, institutions with which it shares a similar philosophy, offering salty, greasy, and garlicky fare at prices that are a bit high, but not enough to... More >>>