I'm pretty sure I'm not the first person to have pigged out at three barbecues in Lockhart in the space of one hour. This central Texas town trails along Highway 183, culminating in one of the prettiest Victorian courthouse squares in the state. According to one local guide, it was the site of more Wild West shoot-outs than any other town in Texas. It's also the epicenter of Lone Star barbecue, the place where its ancient principles are most clearly and forthrightly espoused. Thus the 'cue is heavily smoked over post oak (and traditionally also mesquite) for about five to 14 hours, and delivered in Spartan fashion on brown butcher paper. Unadorned by sauce, the sole seasoning is a rub of coarse salt and crushed black peppercorns, applied before the meat is plunged into waist-high brick pits. Sold by the pound ($7.90 to $9.90), the 'cue is accompanied by your choice of soda crackers or sliced supermarket white bread. A separate concession in the dining room offers nutty extras, including kosher dill pickles, raw onions, blocks of cheddar, pickled jalapeños, and ripe avocados. Do with... More >>>