In the last decade we've been bombarded with bistros. Most have had more success in plastering their premises with enamel signs and movie posters than in achieving the off-hand quirky excellence of real Parisian bistros. Now along comes Bistro du Vent ("Café of the Wind"), perched on a blustery stretch of far west 42nd Street. Even in its opening weeks, the bi-level space had a lived-in quality: plump red leather banquettes spread beneath beige walls mercifully devoid of fakey signage. The wine list is unusually egalitarian, with a handful of good bottles priced under $25. Included in this self-effacing group is a Corbières, a tart and spicy southern French red that knocked my... More >>>