The sausage alone is worth the trip. Pinkish, cut on the bias, flecked with fat, it spills into a makeshift arena formed by ranked accompaniments: raw ginger, cilantro, and purple onions, each flinging a sharp additional flavor. Served warm, the sausage tastes pleasantly sour, a contrast to much sweeter Chinese sausages. Another noble appetizer is the jazzy-sounding moo dad ($7.50), chewy scrabbles of marinated pork cooked to the consistency of jerky. Planted in a lettuce cradle, it's a treat that, like the sausage, is spare and... More >>>