Named after the colorful embroidered tunic worn by women in southern Mexico, El Huipil is a recently opened Red Hook café. The bright orange walls amplify the sunlight that streams in through the windows on a winter afternoon, and phantom convection currents cause the cut-paper images hanging from the ceiling to tremble. The waiter trips down a few steps from the kitchen, wearing a black guayabera and black slacks, his jet hair in a braid that goes all the way down his back. He speaks perfect English at this slightly upscale establishment, located on a street so obscure that traffic to the impending Ikea may never penetrate this far. Nevertheless, El Huipil is gradually building a...
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