Thwap! Thwap! Thwap! The dude in the window slaps the yellowish rope of noodle dough mercilessly on the stainless-steel counter. A line of gawkers begins to form outside on 32nd Street. Heck, it's a free show. But the guy isn't there to flaunt his noodle-making abilities. The diners who enjoy eating cha chiang mein insist on it being freshly made, and this guy is living proof that the production is ongoing. These delicate mein magically fall apart into square strands as they are beaten, briefly boiled, then sauced with an inky concoction rich in onions, pork, and bean paste. Whether you choose the prosaic-sounding "noodles with brown sauce" ($6.50) or the enhanced "noodles with special brown sauce" ($6.95), you'll get something that, with your eyes closed, tastes eerily like Chef Boyardee. For the extra 45 cents, the "special" version includes a handful of julienne cucumber and comes in a two-bowl presentation that lets you mix the noodles and sauce yourself. It takes a lot... More >>>