New York lacks the bounty of great Vietnamese food that parts of Southern California and Northern Virginia enjoy, but for years, Steven Duong has been quietly trying to improve that. He's a prolific restaurateur who keeps a surprisingly low profile: The Vietnam-born chef and businessman has at one time or another owned Cyclo, O Mai, Nam, and, most recently Tet, which was a very good place, serving his vibrantly seasoned, precisely executed food. But last year, he closed Tet, sold O Mai and Nam, and went back to Vietnam to scout out new ideas. There, he found himself less interested in the country's formal restaurant kitchens than in home cooking and the alleyway eateries... More >>>