It's a rare restaurant that undergoes such a trial and passes with flying colors. On a recent Sunday afternoon, 10 of us charged into Istanbul—a new Turkish restaurant in Rego Park—demanding to be fed in a timely fashion. Hunkering down at a long table in the rear, we noted that the decor is pure carryout in the front, where the blinding fluorescent light rivals the sun. The rear is more elegant, sparingly decorated with the occasional rug and beaten-copper serving platter, but the light is still too bright, especially for those who intend to drink any quantity of Turkish Efes beer ($3.50). As we contemplated our order, a chef in a billowy white outfit emerged from the kitchen wagging a long, silver fish by the tail. Of course, we had to... More >>>