Is it possible to love a restaurant for a single innovation? That's the question that occurred to me as I finished up my fourth meal at Cookshop, a second project of the folks who brought you Five Points. Located amid garages and late-night discos in a part of Chelsea that still feels like the wild frontier despite the invasion of a zillion art galleries to the north, Cookshop adopts a disarmingly plain name and decor. The L-shaped room is painted myriad dull shades from ivory to beige; on a shelf below the ceiling march a military file of pygmy lifeless trees. Oh, bury me on the lone prairie. The restaurant's identity package is catnip to the artists, gallery owners, and art lovers who throng the place each evening. Who can blame them for being tired of... More >>>