For Iranians, rice is a wild party. Iranian restaurants typically offer multiple forms of rice pilaf, called polo, in lively colors ranging from hot orange to forest green. And whether you top the rice with charcoal-grilled kebabs, or one of the weird and wonderful stews called khoresht, rice remains the focus of the meal. Thus the selection of only three rices proved mildly disappointing at Colbeh, a glatt kosher restaurant on 39th Street, where the pedestrian stream is one of the most diverse in the city. As I stood in front on an alarmingly warm winter evening, a Russian motorcycle gang in denim decorated with iron crosses came guffawing by. I figured they were going into Colbeh and wondered at the impact they'd have on the staid, mainly religious diners the place attracts. Somewhat disappointingly, they turned into the... More >>>