Tired of Manhattan margarita mills with their timid Tex-Mex? When you get a yen for real Mexican, head for Sunset Park, where Fifth Avenue hosts a string of glittering taquerías. Thus Scooter and I found ourselves passing under the F tracks and then the Gowanus in his blue Honda, pausing just long enough to pick up our ponytailed pal Red Hook Kurt. We hit pay dirt just south of 21st Street, where we found two competing establishments tussling on a single block. I had some misgivings about Taquería D.F., though promisingly named after Mexico City's jurisdictional moniker (Distrito Federal). But after barging in the door, we almost turned and ran. The F.K. factor—a dead giveaway whether a Mexican restaurant is good or not—totaled a discouraging 3.0, meaning we'd instantly spotted three portraits... More >>>