Not since Fat Baby Lamb—a northern Chinese restaurant in Flushing—have I encountered a place as obsessed with the flesh of young sheep. Driving beneath the D tracks on the ancient Dutch thoroughfare New Utrecht Avenue, a pal and I hit culinary pay dirt: a neighborhood with a diverse population of old-timers and immigrants that's a wonderland of cheap eats. Around the corner from Cannoli Plus crouched the prosaic-sounding Bay Ridge Café. Weird, since we weren't anywhere near Bay Ridge. But another sign advertised a second, more seductive... More >>>