"This doesn't look like an Italian restaurant," my companion noted as I hunkered down on the red, wall-hugging banquette which ran the entire length of the L-shaped room and she took the modernistic plastic chair opposite me. The wall was painted with wildly colored rectangles, making it feel like we were dining in an Ikea. Not bad, really, but the best feature is a massive array of wine bottles at the end of the room; only their caps can be seen, like a military phalanx preparing for an endless battle against thirst. Nearly all are from Emilia-Romagna, including 14 Lambruscos—light fizzy reds that run from very dry to very sweet and go particularly well... More >>>