A phenomenon is taking place in the West Village. The old-guard French bistros are disappearing, and being replaced by—newer French bistros. These revamped institutions offer colorful cocktails, eclectic wine lists, loud music, bright decor, and most important, modern menus that reflect contemporary ideas about cooking. Now instead of saucissons Lyonnaise, frisée aux lardons, steaks frites, and heavy cassoulets, we have seared tuna, grilled whole fish, plenty of poultry, vegetarian apps and entrées, and salads out the wazoo. Though the menu has been rejiggered— often in a vaguely Asian direction— the quintessential Frenchness of the cooking and culinary... More >>>