We sat stunned in the lovely back garden of Baci & Abbracci, our gaze directed at the cloudless sky. Up above wheeled hundreds of fawn-gray doves in concentric circles, their wings glinting white as they turned toward the sun. A faint flapping could be heard as they resolved themselves into three vortices, which disappeared one by one over the line of rooftops. Seeing us gaping, the waiter came over to explain, "A guy on the next block keeps birds on his roof, and he likes to put on a show... More >>>