"Hey, where's the fondue?" my date exclaimed as the apps began to arrive. There was a salad of butter lettuce and bacon ($9.50), each leaf coated with a wholesome buttermilk dressing, and—its polar opposite—a dark slice of gelatinous terrine in which you could make out, as if through a smoky lens, fragments of oxtail and pig foot. Cool and smooth on the tongue, the terrine came with a green schmear of something that tasted pleasantly of mustard and capers. Even more inscrutable, but no less delicious, was the crépinette ($11). While we'd expected a French pancake, it proved to be a juicy puck of shredded pork, raised toward the sky on a bier of wilted nettles. The burger reminded us of Carolina barbecue, but the nettles—annoying weeds that sting you in the garden—catapulted the starter into Hansel and... More >>>