There's a brand-new noodle in town. It goes by the name of "peel noodle," a word combo that elicits an astonishing zero Google hits. Find it by descending the steps to Sheng Wang, a mirror-lined basement on Eldridge with no English name. Offering a handful of seats along a narrow counter, the room is undecorated except for the pink paper strips that constitute the menu. A giant glass window looks into an adjacent fish-ball factory, where towering mountains of product seem in danger of toppling and washing you out the door on a fish-ball tsunami. Fujianese cuisine is unthinkable... More >>>