No one can accuse the Germans of dining daintily. In fact, after sharing three appetizers, including a soup and a salad, the four of us were ready to polish off our beers, push back from the table, and split. We'd downed a pair of dark sausages bulging with veal and dried cherries that went by the tongue-tying name of reh-kirschwuerstchen ($7.50). Next to them sprawled about a pound of what the menu refers to as German potato salad, but instead of the usual austere concoction of white vinegar, bacon, and cold boiled spuds, this recipe kicked it up a notch with an onslaught of thick mayo. Two hands were needed to hoist each heavy forkful. We were reeling with fat and carbs even before digging in to the so-called salad, Bayarischen ochsenmaul ($8). The magnificent heap was mainly pink shavings of compressed cow muzzle glinting yellow with gelatin. Sweet purple onions constituted the vegetable part. "Do we need a dressing?" I asked the dirndl-draped waitress. "I think it might already be dressed with meat juices," she replied, wrinkling her nose as she gazed at the strange edible mass. The third appetizer, a potato soup laced with cheddar and speck (lean smoked bacon), proved... More >>>