I've ratted out many New York barbecues over the last few years, based on the complaint that the meat didn't taste smoky enough, or even worse, that the flavor came from barbecue sauce containing the vile chemical cocktail liquid smoke. When it comes to the various styles of barbecue available in Gotham—whether originating in the Carolinas, Memphis, Kansas City, or Texas—I've been an equal-opportunity abuser. Now, finally, a barbecue has appeared that I dig right out of... More >>>