"Hick'ry, cedar, and oak," was the enthusiastic reply of the clerk in the ear-flapped cap when asked what kinds of wood were being used in the smoker. He was presiding over a blackened meat selection that glistened in metal receptacles under hot lights. The flank steak—an oddball thing to barbecue—looked a little dry, but the shredded pork appeared moist and crusty with its spice rub. Ultimately, I gravitated toward the beef brisket. It was gloriously fatty, and smelled powerfully of hardwood smoke when I sat down to eat it at one of the... More >>>