In many respects, Hill Country is a reverent re-creation of Kreuz Market in Lockhart, Texas, the Lone Star State's most beloved barbecue. Kreuz is housed in a barn-like premises on the edge of town, forsaking its smoky and picturesque original home on the town square. Poured into a former warehouse on West 26th Street festooned with stamped tin and distressed wood, the interior of Hill Country mimics the new Kreuz. Cords of post oak are corralled at one end of the room, while a rustic counter dispenses weighed-by-the-pound 'cue, pooled in a holding bin that's a facsimile of the actual pits at Kreuz. Seating for an army scatters the large room, and a bar dispenses the inevitable Lone Star beer. With photos of Lockhart nailed to the walls, the place qualifies as a theme restaurant, but one that makes me... More >>>