One of the classics of French regional cooking is choucroute garnie: sauerkraut topped with a cholesterol wet dream of smoked and pickled pig parts. The dish seems at first more German than French, but anyone who knows the ping-ponging history of Alsace understands that it's spent many years under the flag of Deutschland. The resulting cultural confusion makes for a cuisine that subverts the cabbage-based dishes of Germany with a Gallic touch. The dish's ingredients hark back to the days when the harvest signaled a rush of preserving as food was put up for the winter.... More >>>
By Michael Kenneth Lopez
Even uptown, Quatorze's choucroute keeps the Surkrutschneiders of Alsace busy.