The stretch of Coney Island Avenue that runs through Ditmas Park marks the culinary center of the city's thriving Muslim community, packed with more restaurants serving halal meat than any other district. Their fronts emblazoned with Arabic or Cyrillic characters, most dish the scarf of Pakistan or former Soviet republics. In the middle is Bahar Shishkebab House, a solitary Afghan establishment boasting a large dining room lined with dramatic color photos of monuments and empty mountain gorges, as if a mujahedin column were about to snake around the corner. And though the room is dominated by the great cave of a tandoor hearth, you can eat well without ever touching a kebab, or, indeed, without... More >>>
By Michael Kenneth Lopez
The three kinds of bolani at Bahar Shishkebab House include this Afghan variation on scallion pancakes.