For most of this century, Manhattan's Yorkville harbored a sizable Hungarian population. Their coffeehouses, butcher shops, and restaurants were anchored by Paprika Weiss, a store highlighting the Magyar obsession, available in mild, medium, and hot strengths. The scarlet-powder purveyor is now a diner, and old restaurants like Csarda and the Red Tulip have vanished, leaving Mocca the area's sole Hungarian eatery. The tin ceiling, tile floor, and rickety furniture time-warp you to an earlier decade, and the average age of the diners seemingly around 80 will make you feel young again. Of the ethnographic geegaws on the walls, only a well-used leather whip and
a pair of fur canteens belie the staid demeanor... More >>>
By Michael Kenneth Lopez
Mocca Hungarian seasons the menu with a belt-busting smorgasbord of paprika-dusted dishes.