Despite its happy-go-lucky name, Dai Wah Yummy City is a very serious place. No red dragons with glimmering eyes sprawl across the wall. No potted plants perch on pedestals. There are no futuristic light fixtures, nor wildly uniformed waiters in pastel waistcoats, either—just a big, boxy room with white walls, made to seem even barer by maximum wattage. The only decorations are a floral mural on the rear wall that seems like the artist ran off after half executing it, and a giant plasma TV dangling from the ceiling. Rather than showing chop-socky videos, it follows international events. On our first visit, President Obama was receiving Chinese president Hu Jintao at the White House as we ate, which lent gravitas—if not gravy—to a... More >>>