Hopelessly unhip since the late ’80s, the battle-scarred French bistro seems to be making a comeback. Returning to Gotham in triumph are such Gallic commonplaces as steak frites, moules frites, frisée salad, pork rillettes, steak tartare, and—of course—French onion soup swimming in gobs of gooey Gruyère. The bistro moderne makes us remember why New Yorkers loved these restaurants in the first place, for their sense of intimacy and coziness, instantly familiar menus, reduced volume levels that let you carry on a romantic conversation, and wine prices that encouraged you to think in terms of bottles... More >>>