Few recent openings have created as much controversy as that of Empellon (“Push”), located just off Sheridan Square at the quizzical corner of West 4th and West 10th. The chef is Alex Stupak, former pastry chef at Wylie Dufresne’s temple of molecular gastronomy, WD~50. Why would one of the city’s most respected dessert makers leave the realm of fondants and foams to open a glorified taqueria? Well, he hasn’t completely abandoned pastries yet—but more... More >>>