Edinburgh in August feels like the Berkshires in October—chilly, wet, and extremely lovely. Dashing from show to show in the city's yearly culture binge, the diligent Fringe-goer still has time to stare out over the city's dividing gorge, supernaturally green in the veils of falling mist and gray light. Central Edinburgh sits on two perpendicular saddles: one is the Old Town, a spine slung between Castle Rock and Holyrood Palace, the other is the New Town, a gentler hill covered in Georgian rowhouses that overlook the Firth of Forth. Both sides are stone—the Old Town honeycombed and medieval and close, the New Town a testament to elegant,... More >>>