At the end of the last century, who could have predicted Manhattan would someday be speckled with Sichuan restaurants? Cantonese carryouts were installed in every neighborhood back then, patronized by customers long accustomed to their wonderfully bland, greasy output and as addicted to egg rolls and stir-fries as to cheap prices and speedy delivery. But as old-school takeaways vanished, pricier Sichuan places appeared in Chelsea and Midtown, where the core menu was not only unfamiliar to most diners, but... More >>>