Even more than Jackson Heights or Corona, Sunset Park has become our premier Mexican-food neighborhood, with more restaurants, bodegas, street carts, and food trucks per square inch than anywhere else in the city. Taken together, these places perfectly recapitulate the development of our modern taquerias starting two decades ago. Back then, Pueblan bodega owners—realizing they already stocked the raw materials—put up makeshift counters flaunting Dutch ovens filled with stewed meats and began serving antojitos, the masa-based meals that constitute a major portion of the Mexican diet. Eventually, the groceries on the shelves withered away, and full-blown taquerias arose, also spinning off street... More >>>