The best thing about a pot of jambalaya, whether it's made with a box of Uncle Ben's or a bag of Southern long-grain, is the leftovers. The next day, the flavors have deepened. Balled up and fried, the meat-studded, stock-soaked rice gains texture, too. At Exchange Alley in the East Village, the fried jambalaya ($8) is jeweled with Andouille sausage and Tasso ham, served with an ugly, delicious gravy that takes a cue from dirty rice—lumpy with liver and meat, its flavors built on the deep, careful browning of flour,... More >>>