One of the first things the Fujianese established when they moved into Manhattan's Chinatown a dozen years back was their wizardry with noodles. Maybe it was because they found themselves—both here and in China—at the bottom of the food chain. Or maybe they just loved noodles. Not only did they make them in all the southern styles (Fujian is midway between Hong Kong and Shanghai), but they reached across the breadth of China and Southeast Asia to add new and unique varieties to their collection. Fujianese places often serve four or five kinds, usually in soups with another main... More >>>