Japanese food in America has evolved way beyond its parochial roots in the old country, where restaurants were traditionally small and narrowly focused on one or two dishes. Across the U.S., the sprawling, all-purpose Japanese eatery has become standard, offering a dazzling mix of sushi, soba, tempura, teriyaki, and tofu under one roof. Pedaling furiously in the opposite direction, Gotham has gradually filled out its collection of small Japanese specialty restaurants. We've had places preoccupied with pork cutlets (Katsuhama), Okinawan food (Suibi), tempura (BarFry), okonomiyaki (Otafuku), pig feet (Hakata Tonton), curry (Go!Go!Curry), udon (Udon East), home-style croquettes (Chiyono), fugu (Chikubu), eels (Kiraku), and soba (Honmura An), the last three... More >>>