Here is a bowl of New England clam chowder ($15), the stock, thickened with potato, a silky conduit for the flavors of clams, bacon, and bay leaf, served with a bowl of "oyster crackers." You know this dish, but there are those silly quotation marks, relics of menu-writing, reminding you that things aren't always what they seem. Culinary tricks can be gimmicky and exhausting, and eaters can't be blamed for approaching them with a healthy amount of... More >>>