Although I've yet to witness throngs of excitable youths galloping down Manhattan Avenue screaming for smørrebrød, maatjes herring in their bloated hipster bellies slowing them down, it would seem that the modest Nordic invasion of the past few years has ingrained itself in New York's dining culture. The hallmarks of these establishments — spartan, pointed design elements with occasionally austere food to match, an emphasis on constructing meals from the ground up, and highlighting lesser-known or underutilized ingredients like spelt berries and tree needles — present a distinct vision of food at its most primal, even if it often takes modern techniques to get there. Was that bog I tasted in a palate-cleansing quenelle of cranberry sorbet? Acerbic and fresh, the unsweetened fruit was bracing in its potency, aided by a sweet and... More >>>